GHL to Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes, The Hague, 13 June 1866
Title
GHL to Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes, The Hague, 13 June 1866
Title
GHL to Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes, The Hague, 13 June 1866
Sender
George Henry Lewes
Recipient
Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes
Date(s)
- 1866-06-13
Place
The Hague
Letter Content
GHL to Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes, The Hague, 13 June 1866
MS: Mrs. Carrington Ouvry. Hitherto unpublished.
Bellevue Hotel, The Hague, | Wednesday 13 June 1866.
Dearest Mother
You will be glad to hear how well we are and how much we are enjoying ourselves so while waiting for dinner (which will be very welcome) I am not too tired with the day's work to send you a brief sketch.
On Thursday I set off with a dreadful headache which the rail to Dover did not improve. On Friday morning the sight of the sunshine and the calm sea put me in spirits; and our passage was so quiet that instead of increasing it quite took away my headache. We arrived at Brussels at 6, hot, but happy; washed, dined (meeting Dr. Bodichon at dinner) rambled about the town to see our favorite spots (13 years ago! You may imagine the memories!) and went to an open air concert in the Parc where I had coffee and cigar, and we looked at the promenaders and ladies in their gay dresses.
On Saturday morning we started early for Malines, left our luggage at the station and explored the picturesque old town. At first we were much disappointed -- everything looked so new and modern near the railway; but as we penetrated to the old parts our adventurous spirit was well rewarded. After three hours work and walk we got back to the station and off to Antwerp. There we found a delightful Hotel with scarcely anybody in it so that we had the best rooms and dined alone. From Saturday afternoon till Tuesday morning we were in the churches, picture galleries, and picturesque streets, looking at life. On Sunday we heard Mass in the Cathedral, and at night saw a Mystery Play -- the last remnant of the Mysteries played during the Middle Ages, when priests were actors and churches theatres. It was the Life and Death of Our Saviour, represented in 18 or 20 tableaux -- all pantomime, which kept away the ludicrous effect of bad acting. Some of these pictures were very striking and solemn. The Christ was a handsome man with noble gestures and expressive face, who acted so well as to be quite affecting in the great scenes. Imagine their representing such things as the Flagellation and the Nailing on the Cross -- and the
Death on the Cross -- and representing them with great reality too! The audience hushed and intent during the performance -- though the religious effect seemed quite momentary.
On Tuesday at 10 we bade adieu to pleasant Antwerp and went to Rotterdam -- two hours rail and two hours steamer -- the latter a delightful conveyance on the broad river with a succession of Dutch pictures on the banks. The only drawback was a horrible sore throat I caught at Antwerp which made speech difficult and swallowing very painful. Rotterdam is a wonderful place. Imagine a succession of streets broader than Portland Place with ships of large burden at the very doors, and rows of trees on each side mingling their green effects with the crowds of masts, and a brilliant sun shining on these. Then imagine the houses English in look -- (like the red brick houses of Cathedral Towns, such as Exeter or York) only not all after one size and pattern as English houses are apt to be. Crowd the streets with a busy and prosperous population -- women in wooden shoes carrying huge brass vessels that shine like gold -- sailors in red and blue shirts -- fruit stalls scattered about -- and you have some faint idea of Rotterdam. My remembrance of it (twenty seven years ago!) was very accurate -- which proves how peculiar the impression it made.
Unfortunately we did not get into a good hotel. The narrow street horribly noisy -- three organs playing all at once and all out of tune, saluted our arrival, and the row of cart wheels and drunken sailors "made the night hideous." Had we been better off for rooms we should have stayed longer but we were glad to get off today at 10.30 for this place, the Hague. Here we have a luxurious room on the first floor overlooking a splendid garden -- (what we shall have to pay for it troubles Polly, but I am deaf, because I know she enjoys such comforts). It is the prince's birthday 479 and we arrived in time to see the review in the Park (which is facing the Hotel) in his honor. After listening to the music and seeing the troops (with a passing flirtation on my part with a wife for Ben) we went to the Museum of Japanese and Chinese antiquities, and the pictures. This last we have just left. It has been a most delightful visit, and we long for tomorrow when we shall go again.
The weather has been uniformly brilliant, hot, but not too hot; and Polly -- somewhat tanned -- looks wonderfully better. I also am stronger. Polly in sending you her love bids me tell Lizzie (who will read this to you) that the work she did for her has been a very great comfort, and she could not have got on without it.
Send this on to the children when you have read it.
Ever your loving son
G. H. L.
Dear Charles and Gertrude
You will hear from one of us at the next halting place that offers convenience. Meanwhile let me hear from one of you -- address Schwalbach where we shall be next Friday or Saturday (23rd). Send this on to Aunt Susanna who will return it to Mother.
MS: Mrs. Carrington Ouvry. Hitherto unpublished.
Bellevue Hotel, The Hague, | Wednesday 13 June 1866.
Dearest Mother
You will be glad to hear how well we are and how much we are enjoying ourselves so while waiting for dinner (which will be very welcome) I am not too tired with the day's work to send you a brief sketch.
On Thursday I set off with a dreadful headache which the rail to Dover did not improve. On Friday morning the sight of the sunshine and the calm sea put me in spirits; and our passage was so quiet that instead of increasing it quite took away my headache. We arrived at Brussels at 6, hot, but happy; washed, dined (meeting Dr. Bodichon at dinner) rambled about the town to see our favorite spots (13 years ago! You may imagine the memories!) and went to an open air concert in the Parc where I had coffee and cigar, and we looked at the promenaders and ladies in their gay dresses.
On Saturday morning we started early for Malines, left our luggage at the station and explored the picturesque old town. At first we were much disappointed -- everything looked so new and modern near the railway; but as we penetrated to the old parts our adventurous spirit was well rewarded. After three hours work and walk we got back to the station and off to Antwerp. There we found a delightful Hotel with scarcely anybody in it so that we had the best rooms and dined alone. From Saturday afternoon till Tuesday morning we were in the churches, picture galleries, and picturesque streets, looking at life. On Sunday we heard Mass in the Cathedral, and at night saw a Mystery Play -- the last remnant of the Mysteries played during the Middle Ages, when priests were actors and churches theatres. It was the Life and Death of Our Saviour, represented in 18 or 20 tableaux -- all pantomime, which kept away the ludicrous effect of bad acting. Some of these pictures were very striking and solemn. The Christ was a handsome man with noble gestures and expressive face, who acted so well as to be quite affecting in the great scenes. Imagine their representing such things as the Flagellation and the Nailing on the Cross -- and the
Death on the Cross -- and representing them with great reality too! The audience hushed and intent during the performance -- though the religious effect seemed quite momentary.
On Tuesday at 10 we bade adieu to pleasant Antwerp and went to Rotterdam -- two hours rail and two hours steamer -- the latter a delightful conveyance on the broad river with a succession of Dutch pictures on the banks. The only drawback was a horrible sore throat I caught at Antwerp which made speech difficult and swallowing very painful. Rotterdam is a wonderful place. Imagine a succession of streets broader than Portland Place with ships of large burden at the very doors, and rows of trees on each side mingling their green effects with the crowds of masts, and a brilliant sun shining on these. Then imagine the houses English in look -- (like the red brick houses of Cathedral Towns, such as Exeter or York) only not all after one size and pattern as English houses are apt to be. Crowd the streets with a busy and prosperous population -- women in wooden shoes carrying huge brass vessels that shine like gold -- sailors in red and blue shirts -- fruit stalls scattered about -- and you have some faint idea of Rotterdam. My remembrance of it (twenty seven years ago!) was very accurate -- which proves how peculiar the impression it made.
Unfortunately we did not get into a good hotel. The narrow street horribly noisy -- three organs playing all at once and all out of tune, saluted our arrival, and the row of cart wheels and drunken sailors "made the night hideous." Had we been better off for rooms we should have stayed longer but we were glad to get off today at 10.30 for this place, the Hague. Here we have a luxurious room on the first floor overlooking a splendid garden -- (what we shall have to pay for it troubles Polly, but I am deaf, because I know she enjoys such comforts). It is the prince's birthday 479 and we arrived in time to see the review in the Park (which is facing the Hotel) in his honor. After listening to the music and seeing the troops (with a passing flirtation on my part with a wife for Ben) we went to the Museum of Japanese and Chinese antiquities, and the pictures. This last we have just left. It has been a most delightful visit, and we long for tomorrow when we shall go again.
The weather has been uniformly brilliant, hot, but not too hot; and Polly -- somewhat tanned -- looks wonderfully better. I also am stronger. Polly in sending you her love bids me tell Lizzie (who will read this to you) that the work she did for her has been a very great comfort, and she could not have got on without it.
Send this on to the children when you have read it.
Ever your loving son
G. H. L.
Dear Charles and Gertrude
You will hear from one of us at the next halting place that offers convenience. Meanwhile let me hear from one of you -- address Schwalbach where we shall be next Friday or Saturday (23rd). Send this on to Aunt Susanna who will return it to Mother.
Signature
G. H. L.
Citation
George Henry Lewes, GHL to Mrs. John Willim and Mr. And Mrs. Charles Lee Lewes, The Hague, 13 June 1866, Complete George Eliot Letters(2026), George Eliot Archive, edited by Beverley Park Rilett. https://GeorgeEliotArchive.org, Accessed September 7, 2026. https://www.georgeeliotarchive.org/items/show/94958