GHL to Charles Lee Lewes, Ragatz, 6 July 1876
Title
GHL to Charles Lee Lewes, Ragatz, 6 July 1876
Title
GHL to Charles Lee Lewes, Ragatz, 6 July 1876
Sender
George Henry Lewes
Recipient
Charles Lee Lewes
Date(s)
- 1876-07-06
Place
Ragatz
Letter Content
GHL to Charles Lee Lewes, Ragatz, 6 July 1876
MS: Mrs. Carrington Ouvry. Hitherto unpublished.
Hof Ragatz -- Ragatz 6 July 1876.
Dearest Charles
At last we have found a resting place, and I hope a turning point for our health, which at last became such as to create uneasiness in my mind. Headache and diarrhoea which clung to us with an occasional interval of respite from Paris to Bonn, became further complicated by the Mutter's renal troubles (with blood!) which alarmed me, though there was no severe pain, only constant nerve [?] pain which had no pleasant promise! However that -- as well as my diarrhoeas -- seem to have taken themselves to "fresh fields and bowels new" (if the parody may be allowed!)
I wrote to you from Chamb'e9ry -- a letter and a postcard. After having delighted in Les Charmettes there was nothing to detain us; and it was well we left, for the weather changed to steady rain, and as the outlook on the street from the hotel was not attractive, a headachy Mutter wouldn't have enjoyed a sojourn there. By the time we reached Lausanne the weather cleared somewhat. I may say at once that we have been most fortunate in our weather. Rain has always fallen during the night on our journeys. We got a superb salon at Lausanne with views of the Lake from all our windows. We stayed there from Monday to Thursday, greatly charmed with the place, and having good walks amid the gardens and woods of the suburbs. On Thursday we went to Vevey, and there had a gorgeous salon with blue satin curtains and all other idle splendours, and a balcony over the lake (price 20 frs. asked 30; but there was no one in Vevey). We were disappointed with Vevey -- not comparable to Lausanne; but still it had its charms; and we went of course to Clarens and Chillon. On Monday we went to Bern, and were both surprised on rambling about to find it so much more imposing and attractive than we remembered it. Great changes have been made as I dare say you noticed when you were last there. We sat on the terrace; but no afterglow! Tuesday we went to Zurich, and here for the first time we found all the good rooms occupied; but much as we grumbled at the room (on ground) we got, we were contented to have come to the Baur au lac for the sake of the garden and the delicious evening view of the lake we had. Wednesday we got here.
Such is the order of our movements. I say nothing of the lovely scenes we have been contemplating, nor of the enjoyment we have had (mitigated by mucous membranes!) for I am writing in a hurry, and don't feel up to a [gombo.] 507 Enough to say that our small experience of this place is highly promising. The Bergluft though exquisite is not so bracing as I was led to expect, but the temperature is very agreeable and our rooms delightfully cool. Food good. Music three times a day. Guests not fashionable but German and Swiss mostly. King and Queen of Saxony are at the twin hotel; but they will, it is to be hoped, not find out our presence, and no one else shall with any result to themselves!
We got up at 4.50 this morning were out at 5.20; drank two glasses of warm tasteless water, walked in the country for an hour. Breakfasted at 7. Walked from 8.20 to 11.15 up the ravine of the Tamina very like the Via Mola -- a glorious walk -- tier upon tier of mountain sheer over the boiling torrent, with many waterfalls and one or two Staubbachs -- frisches Luft, a surprising (and normal) sense of vigour in our limbs and lightness in our minds -- the sweet serenity once more visible in the Mutter's face -- all seemed as if now at last we were going to begin the much desired journey in search of health! -- I haven't had a bath yet but the Mutter who had one yesterday while I unpacked says it's very nice and I shall experiment in half an hour, to ensure an appetite for dinner. There is drinking water for mucous membranes and bath for gout, rheumatism and general out of orderness.
What effect is Part VI having? Do you hear? I like it better than any of the preceding parts.
If you wouldn't mind the trouble of writing you might send Johnnie Cross word of our whereabout and say we should like to have a word from him. Mutter's love to both of you
Ever your
Pater.
MS: Mrs. Carrington Ouvry. Hitherto unpublished.
Hof Ragatz -- Ragatz 6 July 1876.
Dearest Charles
At last we have found a resting place, and I hope a turning point for our health, which at last became such as to create uneasiness in my mind. Headache and diarrhoea which clung to us with an occasional interval of respite from Paris to Bonn, became further complicated by the Mutter's renal troubles (with blood!) which alarmed me, though there was no severe pain, only constant nerve [?] pain which had no pleasant promise! However that -- as well as my diarrhoeas -- seem to have taken themselves to "fresh fields and bowels new" (if the parody may be allowed!)
I wrote to you from Chamb'e9ry -- a letter and a postcard. After having delighted in Les Charmettes there was nothing to detain us; and it was well we left, for the weather changed to steady rain, and as the outlook on the street from the hotel was not attractive, a headachy Mutter wouldn't have enjoyed a sojourn there. By the time we reached Lausanne the weather cleared somewhat. I may say at once that we have been most fortunate in our weather. Rain has always fallen during the night on our journeys. We got a superb salon at Lausanne with views of the Lake from all our windows. We stayed there from Monday to Thursday, greatly charmed with the place, and having good walks amid the gardens and woods of the suburbs. On Thursday we went to Vevey, and there had a gorgeous salon with blue satin curtains and all other idle splendours, and a balcony over the lake (price 20 frs. asked 30; but there was no one in Vevey). We were disappointed with Vevey -- not comparable to Lausanne; but still it had its charms; and we went of course to Clarens and Chillon. On Monday we went to Bern, and were both surprised on rambling about to find it so much more imposing and attractive than we remembered it. Great changes have been made as I dare say you noticed when you were last there. We sat on the terrace; but no afterglow! Tuesday we went to Zurich, and here for the first time we found all the good rooms occupied; but much as we grumbled at the room (on ground) we got, we were contented to have come to the Baur au lac for the sake of the garden and the delicious evening view of the lake we had. Wednesday we got here.
Such is the order of our movements. I say nothing of the lovely scenes we have been contemplating, nor of the enjoyment we have had (mitigated by mucous membranes!) for I am writing in a hurry, and don't feel up to a [gombo.] 507 Enough to say that our small experience of this place is highly promising. The Bergluft though exquisite is not so bracing as I was led to expect, but the temperature is very agreeable and our rooms delightfully cool. Food good. Music three times a day. Guests not fashionable but German and Swiss mostly. King and Queen of Saxony are at the twin hotel; but they will, it is to be hoped, not find out our presence, and no one else shall with any result to themselves!
We got up at 4.50 this morning were out at 5.20; drank two glasses of warm tasteless water, walked in the country for an hour. Breakfasted at 7. Walked from 8.20 to 11.15 up the ravine of the Tamina very like the Via Mola -- a glorious walk -- tier upon tier of mountain sheer over the boiling torrent, with many waterfalls and one or two Staubbachs -- frisches Luft, a surprising (and normal) sense of vigour in our limbs and lightness in our minds -- the sweet serenity once more visible in the Mutter's face -- all seemed as if now at last we were going to begin the much desired journey in search of health! -- I haven't had a bath yet but the Mutter who had one yesterday while I unpacked says it's very nice and I shall experiment in half an hour, to ensure an appetite for dinner. There is drinking water for mucous membranes and bath for gout, rheumatism and general out of orderness.
What effect is Part VI having? Do you hear? I like it better than any of the preceding parts.
If you wouldn't mind the trouble of writing you might send Johnnie Cross word of our whereabout and say we should like to have a word from him. Mutter's love to both of you
Ever your
Pater.
Signature
Pater.
Citation
George Henry Lewes, GHL to Charles Lee Lewes, Ragatz, 6 July 1876, Complete George Eliot Letters(2026), George Eliot Archive, edited by Beverley Park Rilett. https://GeorgeEliotArchive.org, Accessed September 7, 2026. https://www.georgeeliotarchive.org/items/show/94471