GHL Journal, Vienna, 8-17 April 1870
Title
GHL Journal, Vienna, 8-17 April 1870
Title
GHL Journal, Vienna, 8-17 April 1870
Sender
Ghl Journal
Recipient
U
Date(s)
- 1870-04-08–<br /> 1870-04-17
Place
Vienna
Letter Content
GHL Journal, Vienna, 8-17 April 1870
MS: Yale. Hitherto unpublished.
Friday 8th April.
Reached Vienna at 8.30. Robert Lytton came to meet us and while his man looked after our luggage conducted us to the apartment he had secured for us in the R'f6mischen Kaiser -- very spacious and quiet, on 1st floor. (11 florins a day however). Breakfasted, slept for an hour, washed, and took a ramble, but the place so altered that I could not find myself in it again until meeting F'fcrstenberg 147 we got at last into the Graben and Stephans Platz. Went into the Cathedral, but the cold was so great that even this grand interior could not arrest us long. Back to the hotel, lunched, and read B'f6rne [Skizzen.] 148 Dined at the Lyttons. In the evening Prof. Gompertz 149 and his wife came in. Arranged to go with him tomorrow to Meynerts. 150 Mrs. Lytton very charming.
Saturday 9th.
Polly's cold turned last night to severe hoarseness and this morning it was still so bad that I wrote to Lytton to put off our going with them to Count von Beust's 151 private theatricals this evening. As all the Court and all the fashion of Vienna will be there, it is a disappointment. But the risk too great. Read Stahr's Ein Winter in Rom. 152 Prof. Gompertz called and took me to Meynert who had been summoned by telegram. We then went over to Stricker 153 who showed us some new apparatus he was inventing, a new immersion lens 15. by Hartnack 154 under which we examined the muscle of Hydrophilus, still waving and contracting. Saw a frog whose semicircular canals had been destroyed. Ray Lankester 155 came in. Back to Hotel and found Lytton with Polly. When he left we went to Dehnes and had coffee and thence to the Belvidere -- portraits finer than I remembered. Giorgione, Velasquez, Titian. Home and read B'f6rne. Dined with the Lyttons. Mrs. Erle 156 the only one present. Polly too unwell to go to Beusts so we came home, changed our dress, and rambled in the starlit streets.
Sunday 10 April.
Another superb day. Wrote to Mother. Rambled then went to the Lichtenstein Gallery. Marvellous Rembrandt -- portrait of a plump pleasant gentleman in a velvet cape, with hat half shadowing his face. The modelling and flesh painting surpasses anything I remember of his. Portrait of Wallenstein and many others by Vandyck, Rubens, etc. Disappointed now with Rubens' [Assumption.] Home and read Stahr Ein Winter in Rom. As we were finishing luncheon Mrs. Lytton called. Accompanied her home. Lytton then proposed that we should drive in the Prater and I went to get an open carriage for that purpose but none to be had, so he, Polly and I walked in the Volksgarten. Came back tired and read the Times. Dined at Lyttons. A most delightful evening. Villers, 157 the Saxon charg'e9 d'affaires, nephew of the old translator of Kant, speaking German and French with equal elegance and felicity, conversation like champagne, and manner very amiable. Klackzo 158 also a lively well-informed man. Conversation always general and easy. Many bons mots and stories.
Monday 11.
The weather less fine to-day, cloudy at times and threatening rain. Read Stahr Ein Winter in Rom. Went to the Irrenhaus and had a long talk with Meynert on the brain; arranged to go there tomorrow to see his preparations. Gompertz walked home with me. Lunch and rambled in the sun and through the streets, shopping. Polly's cold still too bad to permit of galleries or other visits. Read Jean Paul Kazenberg's Bad Reise. 159 Dined at Lyttons. Polly's throat bad.
Tuesday 12 April.
Read Stahr's Ein Winter in Rom. Went to Meynert and spent the whole forenoon with him over his preparations. On coming back found M. Villers with Polly. He sat nearly an hour and then she had a light dinner, her cold being too bad for her to dine out or stir out today. I hunted in vain for a pretty brooch for her. Dined at Lyttons. Present: Mr. Jay, 160 the American plenipotentiary minister (seemingly quite commonplace), Prof. and Mrs. Gompertz, and F'fcrstenberg. Villers came in during the evening. Very gay and pleasant. Lytton brought a message from the Princess Hohenlohe, 161 very desirous of seeing us.
Wednesday 13.
Read Meynert: Ursprung des R'fcckenmarks. F'fcrstenberg called to see Polly's throat -- slight ulceration which needs great prudence. Went with him to the Apothecarie and bought a spirit lamp. Went to Lytton and talked to him about his Fables, 162 and about Polly. Came home and found Mrs. Gompertz with her. Lytton called. Then Mrs. Lytton who brought tickets for the Feet Washing tomorrow. 163 Called on the Princess Hohenlohe. She very cordial; sent for the children to show me, but only the young Prince 164 in. Stayed all the rest of the day in the hotel. Dined there. In the evening went over the Brain with Polly.
Thursday 14.
Polly's throat too bad to think of our going to the [Feet Washing.] This is the second chance we have missed of seeing the Empress. F'fcrstenberg called. Bought oil silk for compress. Read Meynert. Went to Stricker: protoplasm of toad's egg, hyaline, without granules but amoebaform movements. Came home and found Gompertz with Polly. Had lunch while Polly dined. Mrs. Lytton and children called, bringing some barleywater. Lesson on the Brain to Polly. Wrote to Mother. Dined at Lyttons: Prince and Princess Ahrenberg, 165 Gr'e4fin Kolonitsch, 166 and a Hungarian baroness whose name I missed. The countess a handsome genial, very fat, woman talked well. The princess very lively, smoked cigars. The prince quiet but placed his mot 'e0propos. At 10 o'clock left them to go to a party at Gompertz: hot rooms blazing with light, diamonds and pink dresses. Felt very weary of being introduced to women who all said the same thing. Bettelheim sang superbly the Erlk'f6nig and a song by Schumann. Slipped away with F'fcrstenberg when supper began.
Friday
Good Friday. Polly's throat rather better. My headache came on and towards evening became horrible. Dined with the Lyttons alone and said goodbye. I lay on the sofa after dinner and slept. Very sick when we got away.
Saturday.
Bad night, but head got better towards morning. Took leave of the Gompertz -- Polly with me. Went to Bank. The Lyttons came to say goodbye once more. Lunched. F'fcrstenberg came and took me to Leidesdorf 167 and Meynert. Dined at hotel and packed up.
Sunday 17.
Splendid morning. Great trouble in getting our slow waiters to move rapidly enough to get off in time. F'fcrstenberg was at the station having kindly spoken to the Inspector to secure us a coup'e9 alone. Said goodbye to him, and glad enough to say goodbye to Vienna which has completely changed its character and for me lost all its old charm. The sunshine quickly gave place to rain and hail. Reached Salzburg at 5.30. Hotel Nelboeck -- quite cheered to find ourselves in a comfortable hotel, with friendly landlord and waiters after the splendid discomfort of Vienna and Berlin. The ravishing views from our windows also an important advantage; especially after the noisy dusty streets. Excellent dinner of trout, venison, beef, and mahlspeise, all of the best, and the waiter anxious for us to eat more. Read Times over my cigar.
MS: Yale. Hitherto unpublished.
Friday 8th April.
Reached Vienna at 8.30. Robert Lytton came to meet us and while his man looked after our luggage conducted us to the apartment he had secured for us in the R'f6mischen Kaiser -- very spacious and quiet, on 1st floor. (11 florins a day however). Breakfasted, slept for an hour, washed, and took a ramble, but the place so altered that I could not find myself in it again until meeting F'fcrstenberg 147 we got at last into the Graben and Stephans Platz. Went into the Cathedral, but the cold was so great that even this grand interior could not arrest us long. Back to the hotel, lunched, and read B'f6rne [Skizzen.] 148 Dined at the Lyttons. In the evening Prof. Gompertz 149 and his wife came in. Arranged to go with him tomorrow to Meynerts. 150 Mrs. Lytton very charming.
Saturday 9th.
Polly's cold turned last night to severe hoarseness and this morning it was still so bad that I wrote to Lytton to put off our going with them to Count von Beust's 151 private theatricals this evening. As all the Court and all the fashion of Vienna will be there, it is a disappointment. But the risk too great. Read Stahr's Ein Winter in Rom. 152 Prof. Gompertz called and took me to Meynert who had been summoned by telegram. We then went over to Stricker 153 who showed us some new apparatus he was inventing, a new immersion lens 15. by Hartnack 154 under which we examined the muscle of Hydrophilus, still waving and contracting. Saw a frog whose semicircular canals had been destroyed. Ray Lankester 155 came in. Back to Hotel and found Lytton with Polly. When he left we went to Dehnes and had coffee and thence to the Belvidere -- portraits finer than I remembered. Giorgione, Velasquez, Titian. Home and read B'f6rne. Dined with the Lyttons. Mrs. Erle 156 the only one present. Polly too unwell to go to Beusts so we came home, changed our dress, and rambled in the starlit streets.
Sunday 10 April.
Another superb day. Wrote to Mother. Rambled then went to the Lichtenstein Gallery. Marvellous Rembrandt -- portrait of a plump pleasant gentleman in a velvet cape, with hat half shadowing his face. The modelling and flesh painting surpasses anything I remember of his. Portrait of Wallenstein and many others by Vandyck, Rubens, etc. Disappointed now with Rubens' [Assumption.] Home and read Stahr Ein Winter in Rom. As we were finishing luncheon Mrs. Lytton called. Accompanied her home. Lytton then proposed that we should drive in the Prater and I went to get an open carriage for that purpose but none to be had, so he, Polly and I walked in the Volksgarten. Came back tired and read the Times. Dined at Lyttons. A most delightful evening. Villers, 157 the Saxon charg'e9 d'affaires, nephew of the old translator of Kant, speaking German and French with equal elegance and felicity, conversation like champagne, and manner very amiable. Klackzo 158 also a lively well-informed man. Conversation always general and easy. Many bons mots and stories.
Monday 11.
The weather less fine to-day, cloudy at times and threatening rain. Read Stahr Ein Winter in Rom. Went to the Irrenhaus and had a long talk with Meynert on the brain; arranged to go there tomorrow to see his preparations. Gompertz walked home with me. Lunch and rambled in the sun and through the streets, shopping. Polly's cold still too bad to permit of galleries or other visits. Read Jean Paul Kazenberg's Bad Reise. 159 Dined at Lyttons. Polly's throat bad.
Tuesday 12 April.
Read Stahr's Ein Winter in Rom. Went to Meynert and spent the whole forenoon with him over his preparations. On coming back found M. Villers with Polly. He sat nearly an hour and then she had a light dinner, her cold being too bad for her to dine out or stir out today. I hunted in vain for a pretty brooch for her. Dined at Lyttons. Present: Mr. Jay, 160 the American plenipotentiary minister (seemingly quite commonplace), Prof. and Mrs. Gompertz, and F'fcrstenberg. Villers came in during the evening. Very gay and pleasant. Lytton brought a message from the Princess Hohenlohe, 161 very desirous of seeing us.
Wednesday 13.
Read Meynert: Ursprung des R'fcckenmarks. F'fcrstenberg called to see Polly's throat -- slight ulceration which needs great prudence. Went with him to the Apothecarie and bought a spirit lamp. Went to Lytton and talked to him about his Fables, 162 and about Polly. Came home and found Mrs. Gompertz with her. Lytton called. Then Mrs. Lytton who brought tickets for the Feet Washing tomorrow. 163 Called on the Princess Hohenlohe. She very cordial; sent for the children to show me, but only the young Prince 164 in. Stayed all the rest of the day in the hotel. Dined there. In the evening went over the Brain with Polly.
Thursday 14.
Polly's throat too bad to think of our going to the [Feet Washing.] This is the second chance we have missed of seeing the Empress. F'fcrstenberg called. Bought oil silk for compress. Read Meynert. Went to Stricker: protoplasm of toad's egg, hyaline, without granules but amoebaform movements. Came home and found Gompertz with Polly. Had lunch while Polly dined. Mrs. Lytton and children called, bringing some barleywater. Lesson on the Brain to Polly. Wrote to Mother. Dined at Lyttons: Prince and Princess Ahrenberg, 165 Gr'e4fin Kolonitsch, 166 and a Hungarian baroness whose name I missed. The countess a handsome genial, very fat, woman talked well. The princess very lively, smoked cigars. The prince quiet but placed his mot 'e0propos. At 10 o'clock left them to go to a party at Gompertz: hot rooms blazing with light, diamonds and pink dresses. Felt very weary of being introduced to women who all said the same thing. Bettelheim sang superbly the Erlk'f6nig and a song by Schumann. Slipped away with F'fcrstenberg when supper began.
Friday
Good Friday. Polly's throat rather better. My headache came on and towards evening became horrible. Dined with the Lyttons alone and said goodbye. I lay on the sofa after dinner and slept. Very sick when we got away.
Saturday.
Bad night, but head got better towards morning. Took leave of the Gompertz -- Polly with me. Went to Bank. The Lyttons came to say goodbye once more. Lunched. F'fcrstenberg came and took me to Leidesdorf 167 and Meynert. Dined at hotel and packed up.
Sunday 17.
Splendid morning. Great trouble in getting our slow waiters to move rapidly enough to get off in time. F'fcrstenberg was at the station having kindly spoken to the Inspector to secure us a coup'e9 alone. Said goodbye to him, and glad enough to say goodbye to Vienna which has completely changed its character and for me lost all its old charm. The sunshine quickly gave place to rain and hail. Reached Salzburg at 5.30. Hotel Nelboeck -- quite cheered to find ourselves in a comfortable hotel, with friendly landlord and waiters after the splendid discomfort of Vienna and Berlin. The ravishing views from our windows also an important advantage; especially after the noisy dusty streets. Excellent dinner of trout, venison, beef, and mahlspeise, all of the best, and the waiter anxious for us to eat more. Read Times over my cigar.
Citation
Ghl Journal, GHL Journal, Vienna, 8-17 April 1870, Complete George Eliot Letters(2026), George Eliot Archive, edited by Beverley Park Rilett. https://GeorgeEliotArchive.org, Accessed September 7, 2026. https://www.georgeeliotarchive.org/items/show/94338