GHL Journal, Florence, 3-6 June 1861
Title
GHL Journal, Florence, 3-6 June 1861
Title
GHL Journal, Florence, 3-6 June 1861
Sender
Ghl Journal
Recipient
U
Date(s)
- 1861-06-03–<br /> 1861-06-06
Place
Florence
Letter Content
GHL Journal, Florence, 3-6 June 1861
MS: Yale. Hitherto unpublished.
Monday 3 June.
At 7 this morning Trollope came, as agreed on, with the carriage and we started for Prato Vecchio which we reached at 2. On the way one of the horses fell and cut his head severely. At first we thought him dead; it was with some difficulty he was got up again. -- At Prato we ordered some coffee, and with the cold food we brought with us, had a tolerable luncheon. At 3 we started for Camaldoli. Polly mounted on a well trained poney which also carried the portmanteau. I occasionally took her place, and thus alternately walking and riding, we got to Camaldoli about 'bd 6. The views were lovely; and when after crossing a space of arid hills -- like a vast mud sea hardened into rock -- we came upon the delicious valley of Camaldoli which was seen in the tender evening light we felt it worth any amount of fatigue.
We were received by a very handsome, graceful young friar (Cistercian 778 order) who attended on us till the Padre Foresteraio came. He brought us wine and cold water, and said we should dine at sunset. As my throat was still bad and cough troublesome, they sent for their Padre Speziale, a thin, active, lively old man of nearly seventy -- quite like a comedy apothecary -- who with great volubility and benevolence first gave us a Lecture on the Cause of Cough and its Cure (sounding as if fresh from Hippocrates) and then departed to prepare me a calming potion. Which turned out very agreeable and very efficient. At supper (an excellent one) the Padre Foresteraio, a stout genial man over fifty sat by us and chatted. His delight when Trollope gave him a prime cigar was worth witnessing! T. slept in the monastery; and it was arranged that I might sleep with Polly in the cowhouse where the ladies are sent to sleep. This was about a mile higher up the hill, and we went there accompanied by a boy and his lantern. Capital beds; perfect cleanliness.
Tuesday 4th.
Up at 6. From our windows the prospect was enchanting -- made one long to live in the peaceful valley. Walked to the Foresteria and breakfasted. We there saw the Padre Superiore -- an elegant and intellectual man, also very handsome and full of the most suave courtesy. They took us with pride to see their saw mill, and we then started for the Sacro Eremo: 779 an ascent of about 1'bd hours, through delicious wood of firs, and beeches. Polly had to remain outside looking down the valley while T. and I went over the monastery, and saw the separate houses, each with its four rooms and little garden. The monks only dine together 13 times a year, and are allowed to speak 3 days in the week. We looked over their good Library. The Padre hearing that a Signora was outside, instantly got his straw hat and came out to see her and conduct her to an elevated point from which she might see the monastery. He was very gallant. He seemed perfectly healthy and very happy. He said there was "no remorse there as is in the world." We then walked (I rode) along the hilltops to the Casotto having exquisite views all the way, through woods of pine, beech, and chesnut, -- one whole mountain side covered with asphodels -- and descended once more to the Foresteria where we dined well. The Padre who followed us about like a dog again enjoyed his cigar with us, and then took T. and me over the monastery. Looked over the strangers book, Wordsworth, 780 and Sismondi, 781 among the names inscribed. The usual amount of folly and egotism from unknown noodles. At 'bd past 3 we started for Bibbiena which we reached at 7. En route Polly's horse fell on the edge of a precipice, but she was neither hurt nor shaken. I who saw her fall felt very sick and faint from the shock.
Wednesday 5 June.
Up at 'bd 6 and after breakfasted walked (as before) to La Vernia. 782 Quite different landscape. The heat was intense and the fatigue at last overpowering. While waiting to be admitted we cautiously drank and washed our mouths out at the well. At last the padre (Franciscan order) appeared. Very civil and prevenant, but the Franciscans are quite another guess kind of friars, much lower in type, taken from the poorest classes. After a good dinner we went over the monastery and saw the marvels. Then reposed awhile and chatted (N.B. all the journey we have had fine talk with Trollope, who is a most loveable creature) till we thought ourselves able to ramble among the rocks and beeches and pines of this lovely place. This fairly knocked me up. My pulses fluttered so with fatigue I could scarcely get along. After coffee Polly rode down to her sleeping place and T. and I talked enthusiastically about her over our cigars. We slept in the monastery. Beds very rough -- but weariness will snore upon a flint -- and we were weary.
Thursday 6 June.
Up at 6. Dismayed to find a pelting rain, with no prospect of cessation, and a three hours walk before us, with no '91change'92! After breakfast and adieu to the monks we descended the steeps of La Vernia, and called for Polly who was still in bed, thinking we should not start such weather. While she dressed and breakfasted we stayed warming and drying ourselves by kitchen fire. Then began our descent to Bibbiena through mud and clouds -- rain fine but steady. About halfway down the rain abated; and we reached Bibbiena without much damage. After a second breakfast we started in the carriage for Pontassieve, through rain and mist, and then through the most furious winds. Dined there and home to Florence by the evening lights. Bed at once.
MS: Yale. Hitherto unpublished.
Monday 3 June.
At 7 this morning Trollope came, as agreed on, with the carriage and we started for Prato Vecchio which we reached at 2. On the way one of the horses fell and cut his head severely. At first we thought him dead; it was with some difficulty he was got up again. -- At Prato we ordered some coffee, and with the cold food we brought with us, had a tolerable luncheon. At 3 we started for Camaldoli. Polly mounted on a well trained poney which also carried the portmanteau. I occasionally took her place, and thus alternately walking and riding, we got to Camaldoli about 'bd 6. The views were lovely; and when after crossing a space of arid hills -- like a vast mud sea hardened into rock -- we came upon the delicious valley of Camaldoli which was seen in the tender evening light we felt it worth any amount of fatigue.
We were received by a very handsome, graceful young friar (Cistercian 778 order) who attended on us till the Padre Foresteraio came. He brought us wine and cold water, and said we should dine at sunset. As my throat was still bad and cough troublesome, they sent for their Padre Speziale, a thin, active, lively old man of nearly seventy -- quite like a comedy apothecary -- who with great volubility and benevolence first gave us a Lecture on the Cause of Cough and its Cure (sounding as if fresh from Hippocrates) and then departed to prepare me a calming potion. Which turned out very agreeable and very efficient. At supper (an excellent one) the Padre Foresteraio, a stout genial man over fifty sat by us and chatted. His delight when Trollope gave him a prime cigar was worth witnessing! T. slept in the monastery; and it was arranged that I might sleep with Polly in the cowhouse where the ladies are sent to sleep. This was about a mile higher up the hill, and we went there accompanied by a boy and his lantern. Capital beds; perfect cleanliness.
Tuesday 4th.
Up at 6. From our windows the prospect was enchanting -- made one long to live in the peaceful valley. Walked to the Foresteria and breakfasted. We there saw the Padre Superiore -- an elegant and intellectual man, also very handsome and full of the most suave courtesy. They took us with pride to see their saw mill, and we then started for the Sacro Eremo: 779 an ascent of about 1'bd hours, through delicious wood of firs, and beeches. Polly had to remain outside looking down the valley while T. and I went over the monastery, and saw the separate houses, each with its four rooms and little garden. The monks only dine together 13 times a year, and are allowed to speak 3 days in the week. We looked over their good Library. The Padre hearing that a Signora was outside, instantly got his straw hat and came out to see her and conduct her to an elevated point from which she might see the monastery. He was very gallant. He seemed perfectly healthy and very happy. He said there was "no remorse there as is in the world." We then walked (I rode) along the hilltops to the Casotto having exquisite views all the way, through woods of pine, beech, and chesnut, -- one whole mountain side covered with asphodels -- and descended once more to the Foresteria where we dined well. The Padre who followed us about like a dog again enjoyed his cigar with us, and then took T. and me over the monastery. Looked over the strangers book, Wordsworth, 780 and Sismondi, 781 among the names inscribed. The usual amount of folly and egotism from unknown noodles. At 'bd past 3 we started for Bibbiena which we reached at 7. En route Polly's horse fell on the edge of a precipice, but she was neither hurt nor shaken. I who saw her fall felt very sick and faint from the shock.
Wednesday 5 June.
Up at 'bd 6 and after breakfasted walked (as before) to La Vernia. 782 Quite different landscape. The heat was intense and the fatigue at last overpowering. While waiting to be admitted we cautiously drank and washed our mouths out at the well. At last the padre (Franciscan order) appeared. Very civil and prevenant, but the Franciscans are quite another guess kind of friars, much lower in type, taken from the poorest classes. After a good dinner we went over the monastery and saw the marvels. Then reposed awhile and chatted (N.B. all the journey we have had fine talk with Trollope, who is a most loveable creature) till we thought ourselves able to ramble among the rocks and beeches and pines of this lovely place. This fairly knocked me up. My pulses fluttered so with fatigue I could scarcely get along. After coffee Polly rode down to her sleeping place and T. and I talked enthusiastically about her over our cigars. We slept in the monastery. Beds very rough -- but weariness will snore upon a flint -- and we were weary.
Thursday 6 June.
Up at 6. Dismayed to find a pelting rain, with no prospect of cessation, and a three hours walk before us, with no '91change'92! After breakfast and adieu to the monks we descended the steeps of La Vernia, and called for Polly who was still in bed, thinking we should not start such weather. While she dressed and breakfasted we stayed warming and drying ourselves by kitchen fire. Then began our descent to Bibbiena through mud and clouds -- rain fine but steady. About halfway down the rain abated; and we reached Bibbiena without much damage. After a second breakfast we started in the carriage for Pontassieve, through rain and mist, and then through the most furious winds. Dined there and home to Florence by the evening lights. Bed at once.
Citation
Ghl Journal, GHL Journal, Florence, 3-6 June 1861, Complete George Eliot Letters(2026), George Eliot Archive, edited by Beverley Park Rilett. https://GeorgeEliotArchive.org, Accessed September 7, 2026. https://www.georgeeliotarchive.org/items/show/94302